August 1884. In the middle of the night a silent part car Hotel Posta in Sondrio and climbs up to Predarossa. On it there are four Furest, seems to be British. A few days ago have already tried to defeat the giant ice Chiareggio, but the unfortunate rejected them, and now try again the other side. Edward Shirley Kennedy, president of the British Alpine Club, with its attendant Thomas Cox, driving Melchior Anderegg and the Rev. Leslie Stephen, father of Virginia Woolf, are the first. 3678 meters into the sky, the misfortune is the Mountain of the English.
"We passed the poor Shack Mary refers Bruno Galli-Valerio in ascension to the Accident Report of August 1894 , its roof, torn wind, lies a few meters below and, perhaps cheaply, could be repaired, we passed the famous bronze horse the imagination of some mountaineer had painted for us something quite dangerous and that there seemed nothing to merit such fame, and at ten-thirty touched the summit, five and a half hours after leaving the Shack Corna Rossa. Never in my life I heard the poetry of nature penetrated so deeply in the soul as the top of Misfortune. That immense expanse of mountains and valleys astounding. From the green plains, the eye goes to the blue of the alpine lakes, the dark green of pine woods , the barren black rocks, the white of immense glaciers. Every word to describe the picture that faces the viewer of Misfortune, would only spoil it. beautiful nature, you're still the one that offered us the most beautiful sights, and of which the our mind is not never satisfied. "
Me and Accident .. The first time I stepped on the Accident was in August 2001 along with Renzo, my dad. We chose the OS, the slope is easier to climb and the path of the first climbers: Edward Shirley Kennedy, president of the British Alpine Club, Thomas Cox, the Rev. Leslie Stephen, father of writer Virginia Wolf, and driving Melchior Anderegg. It is said that the pioneers went when he was still of the night from the Post of Sondrio and reached Predarossa coach.
But back to me, Reverend Beno. That August the glacier crevasses and the saddle was very full of snowy hills. Steps unique and exciting. Some stone detached itself from time to time sliding along the channels that we were treading on snow. The rustling turn into silence. The stone disappeared after a few seconds and a grim toll emerge from the abyss. Every time a lump in my throat. I did not know what to expect as they got near the summit. It tells of difficulties inhumane, I wondered where they hide. Around me climbers with equipment by 8000, behind my dad who, like me, saliva without nails or spikes, intent only to admire the beauty of the mountain.
reached the plateau from which we could not see the North Face help but pause to contemplate the horrible ice salt from which the direct path, a vertical drop of 500 meters in the bottleneck that tilts vertically to 60 ° -65 °. I remembered what it says Giuseppe Miotti of Schenatti Albertini and padlocks that this went live in '34 "for many years been the most difficult because of ice in the Rhaetian Alps and think with wonder that White was down 86 from there on skis . "His biggest company, [...] unrepeated until 1996, one of the most important runs made to date worldwide," write the authors of three from the Horn Star K2. To overcome the slow teams engaged in the saddle ice (And laziness do not put crampons), we turned south on the rocks below the Syber-Gysi. The view of the Capanna Margherita confirmed the correctness of our street. Bronze Horse to the only difficulty was to wait patiently for our turn, before potergli jump on his back. In
summit did not know where to look. The horizon was huge, embarrassing. There are no words to describe it, go there!
Disgrazia Why call such beauty? The fancy name and all the legends describe it as a monster eats climbers are unfounded, but enough to put immense body tension. Miotti
writes: "For some reason after name entered as the summit that 'Disgrace' reminiscent of alpine tragedy that never had place in his foot. " Perhaps the name comes dall'italianizzazione of "desglascià" (loose) or more Italianization Cuai crippled by the name of the owner family Alpe Predarossa (Cuai Woe Accident). But whatever it lacks poetry. Therefore, making an arbitrary selection of place names analysis, I propose what I consider more correct because it is more fun and Valtellina.
It is said that once God had given to the inhabitants of Berbenno an imposing mountain of green pastures: Pizzo Bello. In the coming years the excessive vanity and arrogance of the men caused the wrath of God Angry, the Creator with the lightning burned the pastures and held ice on the slopes of the mountain was so called disgrace. The inhabitants of Berbenno therefore had to settle for a smaller top to graze their cattle: the current Pizza Bella (m 2734).
same end, it is said, did the Horns Burned, because of the wrath that the Lord had in respect of a greedy pastor who gave no rest to the Almighty that had fake beggar.
Year after year, the glacier is escaping Predarossa more quickly, in fact, this year between September and October showed annual ablation! I am convinced that, especially after the heat and drought this winter, we will reach the top without touching the snow!
But back to me, Reverend Beno. That August the glacier crevasses and the saddle was very full of snowy hills. Steps unique and exciting. Some stone detached itself from time to time sliding along the channels that we were treading on snow. The rustling turn into silence. The stone disappeared after a few seconds and a grim toll emerge from the abyss. Every time a lump in my throat. I did not know what to expect as they got near the summit. It tells of difficulties inhumane, I wondered where they hide. Around me climbers with equipment by 8000, behind my dad who, like me, saliva without nails or spikes, intent only to admire the beauty of the mountain.
reached the plateau from which we could not see the North Face help but pause to contemplate the horrible ice salt from which the direct path, a vertical drop of 500 meters in the bottleneck that tilts vertically to 60 ° -65 °. I remembered what it says Giuseppe Miotti of Schenatti Albertini and padlocks that this went live in '34 "for many years been the most difficult because of ice in the Rhaetian Alps and think with wonder that White was down 86 from there on skis . "His biggest company, [...] unrepeated until 1996, one of the most important runs made to date worldwide," write the authors of three from the Horn Star K2. To overcome the slow teams engaged in the saddle ice (And laziness do not put crampons), we turned south on the rocks below the Syber-Gysi. The view of the Capanna Margherita confirmed the correctness of our street. Bronze Horse to the only difficulty was to wait patiently for our turn, before potergli jump on his back. In summit did not know where to look. The horizon was huge, embarrassing. There are no words to describe it, go there!
Disgrazia Why call such beauty? The fancy name and all the legends describe it as a monster eats climbers are unfounded, but enough to put immense body tension. Miotti writes: "For some reason after name entered as the summit that 'Disgrace' reminiscent of alpine tragedy that never had place in his foot. " Perhaps the name comes dall'italianizzazione of "desglascià" (loose) or more Italianization Cuai crippled by the name of the owner family Alpe Predarossa (Cuai Woe Accident). But whatever it lacks poetry. Therefore, making an arbitrary selection of place names analysis, I propose what I consider more correct because it is more fun and Valtellina.
It is said that once God had given to the inhabitants of Berbenno an imposing mountain of green pastures: Pizzo Bello. In the coming years the excessive vanity and arrogance of the men caused the wrath of God Angry, the Creator with the lightning burned the pastures and held ice on the slopes of the mountain was so called disgrace. The inhabitants of Berbenno therefore had to settle for a smaller top to graze their cattle: the current Pizza Bella (m 2734). same end, it is said, did the Horns Burned, because of the wrath that the Lord had in respect of a greedy pastor who gave no rest to the Almighty that had fake beggar.
Year after year, the glacier is escaping Predarossa more quickly, in fact, this year between September and October showed annual ablation! I am convinced that, especially after the heat and drought this winter, we will reach the top without touching the snow! Digrazia (3678 m) and Monte Pioda (m 3431) - ascent route
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